Vintage laminate furniture-How To Paint A Laminate Dresser • Vintage Revivals

Check out this latest furniture makeover. So much potential! The laminate faux wood finish was in really rough shape, with chips and dents everywhere, but with the right paint and finishing process, it can be saved. I always start with an overall sanding by hand. Just a heavy grit sand paper does the trick.

Vintage laminate furniture

Vintage laminate furniture

Vintage laminate furniture

Vintage laminate furniture

Vintage laminate furniture

Have you tried Annie Sloan Paint? Living Room. Renter Alert!! Buying real wood. Seller refurbished. Best Offer.

Teen gag movies. Вы находитесь здесь

All Decor. I really wanted Vintage laminate furniture stained top. Any ideas you have I would welcome! Tangerine Standard Laminate. I am wanting to paint this black table a cream color but, I am unsure if I have to sand the base as well? This stuff is great and it acts as a bond coat. Hello Thanks for this great information. Never miss an opportunity to plan a Palm Springs vacay? Many Thanks. When paint or primer is chipping off, you want to get all those loose pieces off. Kilz Adhesion would be beneficial for priming laminate because it sticks to glossy surfaces. Pionite: Pionite is another large supplier of plastic laminate, so as part of Vintage laminate furniture search for retro plastic laminate patterns, check out some of the designs now offered by Pionite.

There are a few tips that you will hear when it comes to thrifting furniture.

  • If it had had grease or staining, I would have used vinegar and water or a TSP solution.
  • Vintage Plastic Laminate Styles.
  • A while back I got an awesome mid century dresser with a laminate top for a screaming deal at goodwill.

There seems to be a problem serving the request at this time. Skip to main content. Filter 2. All Auction Buy it now. Sort: Best Match. Best Match. Gallery view. This particular example dates to the 's and is in very nice condition. See photos for reference.

This collection now explores modern design icons across many decades, designers, and materials. It retains its original Knoll label as well. I will get back to you as quickly as I can. Model Tulip. This is down to driver discretion.

Condition is Used. Collection in person only. Quite rare. Includes two chairs, one stool and the table. The legs easily detach for transport. Larger vans might not fit, zipvan fits easily! This dressing table is from the 's, and it is in good condition. It has one side cupboard and three drawers. There are some marks, see photos, save the Schreiber logo on the back. It measures 39" wide by 17" deep by 29" high, and the mirror is 39" by 17" high. Vintage drop leaf dining table Plus 4 Chairs home interesting round upcycling.

The base is metal, unscrews which and has been spray painted in the 90's but needs touching up again. The top has a funky abstract black design and has a few knocks as shown in photos and is paler in 3 or 4 places but this does come out with waxing. We googled American sites on restoring Formica they are a wealth of information It's been used as a kitchen table, a dining table and as a kids desk over the years - time to say goodbye.

This is a small kitchen or dining table probably dating from the s or s. The table can seat up to four people. The legs can also be removed for transportation but can be a little fiddly to reattach. This is a small round or circular dining table with a rosewood effect laminate, formica or similar finish to the top probably dating from the s or thereabouts.

Rosewood Effect Laminate Dining Table. The table sort of resembles an Eero Saarinen tulip table though not as elegant!

The base is filled with sand. There is wear and tear as expected of its age. The white top laminate timber is in pristine condition. Got one to sell? You may also like. Shop by category. More View more categories Less View less categories.

Room see all. Dining Room. Living Room. Not specified. Colour see all. Brand see all. Herman Miller. Features see all. Drop Leaf. Removable Top. Material see all. Laminate Filter Applied. Style see all. Condition see all. Seller refurbished. Please provide a valid price range. Buying format see all. All listings. Best Offer. Buy it now. Classified Ads. Item location see all. UK Only. European Union. Delivery options see all. Free postage. Show only see all. Returns accepted. Completed items.

Sold items. Authorised seller. Authenticity verified. More refinements More refinements

Any tips you can share would be great! Are there any solutions for this? I would definitely strip as much as you can before sanding. Best of Sale. Warning: Decorating with Chairish can be addictive.

Vintage laminate furniture

Vintage laminate furniture. Reader Interactions

Thanks so much for the tips! I'm pinning for later! Have a Happy Thanksgiving! Leslie House on the Way. Great tips, I've never tried this but it's good to know the proper way for "one day" when I want to. Pinning for then, thanks. Very easy, forgiving, durable and inexpensive. I get a smooth finish. Once I paint I seal with a water based poly usually in a satin or gloss finish, but you can also use a flat finish for less sheen to add durability to the paint.

I have a lot of laminate furniture that could really use a new paint job! Pinning this for my next project! Annie Sloan Chalk Paint will cover anything including laminate. I have painted a few things with it; the key is to let the paint sit longer between coats. Once it is waxed and cured, it is as resistant to scratches as a regular painted surface. I gave my pieces a light sanding before I started but there is no need for a primer.

I think laminate is a correct term or melamine. Formica was the stuff they used on kitchen counters for decades-it is a brand name and is still available. I am interested in trying this formula for home made chalk paint, but have a question; does it dry out like when it's made with plaster of Paris?

I've tried that formula and after about a day, it's hard as a rock. Why in world is all that necessary? Why couldn't I just clean the dresser and start painting? You always could but that won't be a durable finish that will last with lots of wear and moving things around.

Sanding the laminate gives something for the primer and paint to stick to and a primer meant for laminate will bond to it and give a more durable finish. If you just paint the laminate you can usually just use your fingernail and scrape the paint off.

As much as you may find prep work annoying, there's no better way to a good finish. Skipping it is not a good idea. What are some paints brands I can use after applying primer..

You said you would use milk base paint.. You can use pretty much any paint after primer. Lately I have been spraying lacquer, oil-based paints or using a water-based acrylic paint. I find these are best for furniture. I strongly recommend a poly or water-based topcoat for durability. Wax does not hold up long term and can melt the piece sits in the sun.

Everyone has their own preference though, I have used and still use wax sometimes, but the tops of more things see lots of wear sliding and moving things around so poly is what I choose to use especially because I sell pieces and I want what will be most durable for customers.

This is awesome! So you use a water based poly and paint over oil based primer? I have not painted laminate, but I always use oil based paints with oil based primer and water based paint with water based primer. I have not, I don't think paint would hold up on something that would be used so often and for so many functions. You can use water based products and oil based products over one another most of the time as long as you follow the directions for cure time. I use oil based stains all the time with waterbased topcoats.

The only real oil-based products I use are primer and stain. Thanks for the tutorial. It seems like the same thing I do before I paint anything at least the way my dad taught me. I typically tint my primer a lighter shade of the final color of paint. It has made painting everything from rooms to furniture much easier. You say to use oil primer.

I have a ton of water based zinsser and want to know if I will totally screw it if I use that instead of the oil based. I have a dresser that I am turning into a buffet and I need to do it double quick before the in laws visit in about 10 days. I would hate to have to take another trip to the hardware store as I am rushing to get a few other must do's done as well.

Thanks ahead of time. I haven't used water based primer. My main reason is it doesn't stop bleed through which is one of the major reasons I prime. Read the can and see if it can be used on slick surfaces like laminate.

Reeves, thanks for the informative Tut. Probably no one else was confused by this. I purchase sandpaper from Home Depot and Lowes. I have also purchased some off of Amazon. Whatever is easiest and most convenient for me, and cost is also a factor. I buy regular sandpaper, not the ones that are specifically for metal it would specify on the package if it were, in my experience.

I want a more quality painted finish and much different look that what chalk paint offers. With laminate, primer is a necessary step for me. I want a product that is specifically designed to bond to laminate and also help my paint stick and last.

TSP stand for trisodium phosphate which is a cleaning agent. You can read more about the product and directions on the back of the bottle. I am preparing to paint a bathroom lamimate countertop with Annie Sloan chalk paint.

Have heard it willl stick to anything. Already tried primer, which did not seem to adhere well, but kept going with three coats and then used stone spray paint over it. Total disaster. Would welcome any advice to make it work this time! Did you really sand and rough up the laminate so the primer had something to hold on to? Also, you have to be sure you are using an oil based primer that is meant to bond to laminate. The surface has to be extremely clean, so wiping it down many times with a damp cloth, tsp substitute wash, and a microfiber cloth should get everything off it.

Both primer and paint take days to months to fully cure and the durability happens overtime and with the right products the primer, paint, and sealer. So funny. I have this exact same dresser and I have been wanting to paint it for so long. I never thought it was possible, but with this tutorial, I am seeing that it is. Do you have any photos of your finished product? Thank you! I had two questions. Any musts or must nots?

I do use synthetic steel wool or a very high grit sanding sponge between coats to smooth it out and get any small fuzz or particles that may have landed in the finish while it was drying. You will need to strip off the finish that is already on it. From there you can just sand and seal it in its natural color or apply a lighter stain and then seal.

Never miss an opportunity to plan a Palm Springs vacay? Crush on anything Eames? If so, meet Mid-Century Modern. A term used to classify furniture constructed between to , Mid-Century Modern design encompasses everything from sculptural Danish Modern pieces to exotic Brazilian masterpieces. Since Mid-Century Modern style runs the gamut, it can be difficult to sum it up with a single catchphrase. These include pencil legs, teak wood construction, and durable upholstery. Due in large part to these easy-to-love traits, used Mid-Century Modern furniture has maintained a staying power that rivals that of any other style.

In the s European design was heavily influenced by the Bauhaus movement. The Bauhaus movement favored straight lines and an intense focus on function. In s, designers in Europe became increasingly enamored with the concept of Architectural Functionalism, or the idea that furniture's function and style is of equal importance. As the era wore on, designers increasingly asked themselves how they could simultaneously simplify a furniture piece's design and boost its aesthetics. The result was Mid-Century Modern dining tables with pedestal bases instead of legs the Tulip Table and Mid-Century Modern chairs that promoted comfort while assuming a chic, sculptural shape the Egg Chair.

After WWII, new materials like bent plywood, fiberglass, and acrylic infiltrated the market. These materials made it easy for designers to forge into uncharted territory when it came to Mid-Century Modern lighting an Mid-Century Modern chairs. Additionally, Mid-Century Modern manufacturers like Knoll and Herman Miller provided designers with large-scale platforms on which to promote and distribute their designs. These manufacturers helped Mid-Century Modernism permeate the cultural consciousness, and in large part, led to its enduring appeal.

To ward off your space looking like a capsule, try mixing vintage Mid-Century Modern coffee tables and Mid-Century Modern lamps with other styles like Hollywood Regency or even contemporary modern styles. Below, we detail some more ways to update Mid-Century Modern style for your home. In its hey-day Mid-Century Modern furniture was not one to play it demure color-wise.

Mid-Century Modern sofas and Mid-Century Modern benches in shades of sunny yellow, cobalt blue, and poppy were commonplace. Curvy, Mid-Century Modern shapes look divine when cloaked in emerald, navy, and oxblood velvets. When it comes to Mid-Century dressers and Mid-Century desks, opt for pieces with slightly darker finishes and brass or turquoise hardware or inlays. Unexpected metallic or stone will make for a room that reads more glam than austere. Photo: M3LD. But, that said, there is something oh-so refreshing about the shapely contours of an amoeba-shaped Mid-Century Modern coffee table or a kidney bean-shaped Mid-Century Modern sofa.

Mid-Century lighting was no shrinking violet.

Муравей современная антикварная мебель середины века | eBay

Check out this latest furniture makeover. So much potential! The laminate faux wood finish was in really rough shape, with chips and dents everywhere, but with the right paint and finishing process, it can be saved. I always start with an overall sanding by hand. Just a heavy grit sand paper does the trick.

Primer is very important, do not skimp on this stage as it help block smells, wood stain, water marks and helps your top coat adhere. Once the primer has dried you can add your first thin coat of paint. This Benjamin Moore paint goes on like oil paint but cleans up so easy.

I give them a quick clean and a light sanding to scuff the surface so paint will adhere. I like to use Rustoleum Spray Paint suitable for metal surfaces and I apply it in very thin coats. I find if I do the coats too thick the paint creates a weird texture on the surface and no one wants that! So be patient with it. Lastly the legs on this piece needed a facelift, since there was no wood showing on this piece I decided the legs needed to be painted to match the overall colour palette.

The rusted brass plated feet were cleaned up and painted metallic silver and the wood was primed and painted to match the body colour of the dresser. Your email address will not be published. Notify me of follow-up comments by email. Notify me of new posts by email. Previous Post Next Post.

Leave a Reply Cancel reply Your email address will not be published. Sorry, your blog cannot share posts by email.

Vintage laminate furniture

Vintage laminate furniture